Monday, February 20, 2012

Fall Fashion Week, NYC 2012

These are my top three favorite pieces, assuming I researched the documentation of all shows thoroughly. Clockwise from left: Erin Fetherston, Oscar de la Renta, Anna Sui.

Fall Fashion Week in New York was, overall, rather a disappointment to me. I've already seen much more to get excited about in the shows in Madrid, London, and Milan. Nevertheless, definitely garnering the most attention was Marc Jacobs' glacial runway, gingerly navigated by models essentially blinded by the extravagant, Mad-Hatter-style, fur monstrosities they wore atop their heads. It was a dreamlike performance, as we have come to expect from Marc Jacobs, and although it was not my personal favorite of his collections, it was certainly refreshing compared to his competition throughout the week. Largely, the rest of the shows had two main themes: menswear inspirations, very much revolving aroung the suit, tie, and blazer, often accompanied by mens hats; and a color scheme of black, gray, and white, sometimes with a pop of just one or two accent colors here and there, most frequently a burnt orange or coral color. Some examples of this consistent, though in my humble opinion, horrifically tired and unappealing, fashion statement are in the next few pictures taken from either Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Home,, or

Ruffian - I liked this take on the dark, masculine look best because of the sensual, 1940s locks that poke out from under the models' detective-esque hats. The lipstick adds to the air of mystery, which creates a sex appeal not present in many of the other lines.

Richar Chai

Ralph Lauren

Michael Kors - overall this was a very glamorous line, dominated by luxurious furs and finishing with glittering evening wear, but the color scheme followed the pattern: black, gray, white, with accents of orange and browns.
Jil Stuart

Donna Karan

3.1 Phillip Lim
Calvin Klein

Alice and Olivia - this collection did have many gorgeous dresses and a lot of feminine appeal in addition to black and white pieces with menswear touches like the above. I suggest checking it out on, mainly because the photoshoot is spectacular.
Betsey Johnson - even Betsey, who can always be counted upon to put forth something crazy, got on the bandwagon with some looks (though she naturally took the hot pink route with her masculine silhouettes).
Custo Barcelona - even more shocking is that Custo Barcelona seemed to follow the color scheme through most of his show, despite his usual rainbow display in wild textures and prints.

There were also some more feminine takes on the color uniformity, however. I suppose no one could expect Carolina Herrera or Vera Wang (right) not to send something so wonderfully light and girly down the runway that it practically floats. A feminine suit was not unheard of, either, such as Tory Burch's below. And, low and behold, lavender!

Peter Som (left) and Acne (right) seem a little stuck in last season's silhouette from Paris Fashion Week. The wide, lower-set shoulders seen in both of these jackets were all over the spring 2012 runway, in blazers, outwear, and structured tops alike. Personally, I don't understand the aesthetic.

Tulle! Chris Benz's line (left) was one of my absolute favorites, and I literally gasped at my computer screen when I saw this gown (right) by Carlos Miele.
Channeling the 60s:

Nicole Miller
Nanette Lepore

Oscar de la Renta - also a classically feminine line, in which Jackie O. meets prima ballerinas
Betsey Johnson
Anna Sui

Alexander Wang - boxy, masculine silhouettes with cool bits of netting over the bottom of many of the models' faces. Most pieces looked like rain gear, however.
Despite the vastly dull and butch offerings in the day wear this season, the evening wear of many designers adopted the 1930s draped bias line and art deco details that were breathtaking:

Ralph Lauren - the curved seams at the hip showed up on several runways, but not all were as flattering as these.
Reem Acra
Michael Kors
Michael Kors

Badgley Mischka - also featured a winter themed runway design with teased locks and dark lips on all the models. This might be my favorite show.
Overall, I'm just a bit confused. I am obviously aware that our nation is and has been in economic recession, but are our designers suffering from some creative or emotional depression? Or perhaps the tides have simply turned to the practical in light of the economy. Whatever the cause, I miss the spectacle that is fashion week, the fantasy, and most importanly, the fun.

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